現在市面上的鏡框款式、品牌那麼多,價格從100塊到20,000塊都有,它們的品質真的有差那麼多嗎?
廢話不多說,我的答案是,5,000塊以下的鏡框,價格很容易和品質成正比。主要差別在鏡框材質、做工等和配戴性有絕對正相關的品質。而5,000塊以上的鏡框,價格和品質已經不成線性比例了。主要的差別比較會在於產地、訴求、設計不同等和風格、生活、甚至是行銷方式有關的選擇。所以有時候會發現,買了萬把塊的眼鏡,反而不如一千塊的眼鏡耐用。這邊不是說貴的鏡框騙錢,而是貴的鏡框背後常常有不同邏輯的著眼點。如果你真心喜歡,我是覺得買昂貴鏡框這件事情仍然極大的投資報酬率。想想,每天帶著真心喜歡的眼鏡出門,其實開心程度是很無價的。就像我前幾天看完蜘蛛人新宇宙以後就買了雙 Jordan 1 代的鞋是一樣的道理。
不過因為每個人開心的原因都不一樣,很難有採購指南,所以本篇文章,我們先只針對 5,000 塊以下的鏡框做討論,直接舉個例子,平平都是金絲眼鏡,我接觸過的出廠成本可以差到 50 倍之多。
50 倍的價差差在哪呢?主要在於材質、表面處理。其中最主要的差別就是材質,光光一個金絲眼鏡,材質就分銅合金系列、錳鎳合金、不銹鋼、B 鈦、鈦,而銅合金中就又分了白銅、黃銅、青銅等等,每種不同的材質可能就會有 20% 甚至是一倍以上的價差,例如不銹鋼的鏡框成本通常會是一般合金框的 1.5~2 倍。而好一點的製程,可能又差了 20~50% 的價差,所謂製程好一點,是指例如絞鍊焊接的穩定度,或是表面處理色澤的牢固度。好一點的不銹鋼眼鏡,可能售價和製程沒那麼講究的 B 鈦眼鏡是一樣的。
焊接的不好,可能連接處的痕跡很明顯,或是強度不夠,表面處理,噴漆差的可能兩個月掉漆、電鍍半年、真空離子電鍍中等的可以撐一年,最高級的可能可以撐到兩年以上。
這就是 50 倍的價差由來,一副眼鏡末端要賣 100 元其實不是難事,我接觸過一副金絲眼鏡可以讓我進價在 20 元台幣以下的廠商。但交易對象連材料的銅是用甚麼銅都不清楚,搞不清楚黃銅和洋白或是 Monel 等不同合金的差異。這種眼鏡雖然可以賣得很便宜,但使用者戴回去可能一個禮拜有過敏反應,導致連鏡片的錢一起倒賠也是件很正常的事。
我認為,選甚麼眼鏡都好,基本至少要能長時間配戴一年,材質也很難過敏才叫及格。
接下來,就讓我直接用常見的眼鏡款式,按材料劃分等級,分成可用與不可用的材料,還有各個材料的優缺點。
不推薦 | 推薦 | |
金屬 | 各種銅、合金、鋁 | 不銹鋼、鈦合金系列 |
膠框 | PC、壓克力 | 板材、次世代膠材(TR、Ultem、Epoxy等) |
推薦材質的優缺點比較
優點 | 缺點 | |
不銹鋼 | 強度夠、不易過敏、容易調整 | 稍重、只能用在金絲或薄鋼結構的眼鏡。 |
鈦(B鈦、鈦) | 輕、強度夠、不易過敏 | 加工門檻較高,目前無絕對標準,容易買到易斷、混到其他料的鈦框,相對很難調整形狀符合自己的臉。 |
板材 | 顏色豐富、自然、可拋光 | 稍重、無彈性、不夠強韌。 |
次世代膠材 | 輕、比板材強韌 | 通常為上漆處理,無法拋光,不同產地常用不同的原料。 |
其他關於K金、牛角等特殊材質做成的眼鏡因為較為特殊,不在本篇討論之內。
不推薦材質
優點 | 缺點 | |
各種銅、鎳、錳合金、鋁 | 便宜 | 副熱帶氣候特別容易容易生鏽、或引起過敏。 |
PC、壓克力 | 便宜 | 材質脆、容易斷 |
金絲眼鏡:常見的材質為銅、合金、不銹鋼、鈦,其中只要有銅、或是合金這三個字出現,都不推薦購買,即使是國外製造或進口的也不推薦。為什麼呢?因為台灣地處副熱帶氣候,氣溫較高、濕氣較重,人也比較容易流汗,很多眼鏡在歐美這種高緯度的地方戴起來很正常,但在台灣戴很容易半年掉漆,其實掉漆事小,只要表面色澤是後加工的,掉色只是遲早的事。最嚴重的就是掉漆後,人開始出現了過敏的狀況,通常這時候,眼鏡就不能戴了。而綜觀所有的材質,就只有不銹鋼與各式鈦合金相對來說,即使掉漆了,材質本體和肌膚的接觸,也是最不容易產生過敏反應的材質。
台灣建議能戴的眼鏡材質只有鈦系列或不銹鋼。
膠框眼鏡:常見材質為 PC、PMMA、醋酸纖維(板材)、次世代膠材包含TR、ultem、epoxy...等等。膠框眼鏡的 PC 與 PMMA 建議直接跳過,這類的眼鏡材質通常只會出現在低單價如 zara、路邊攤等地方,因為材質偏硬偏脆,戴起來沒那麼舒適以外,很容易斷。而醋酸纖維(俗稱板材)還有各種次世代材質我就非常推薦,兩者的主要差異在於板材較重,強度也不夠,尺寸不對的話,戴久容易變形。品質好壞也差很多,有些醋酸纖維是用射出的,或是板材品質較差,含水量較高,相對來說,框體較重。但板材有個好處,就是它的色澤是本體的色澤,也就是說用久了,只要方法用得對,是可以針對表面的磨損進行再拋光的。
很多人不知道,板材框是可以重新拋光表面光澤的。
而各種次世代膠材眼鏡也是我非常推薦的,這種鏡框更輕、更強韌不變形,效果十分出眾。唯一的缺點就是表面的色澤通常需要靠噴漆加工,這種加工導致這種眼鏡最多戴一兩年後就會開始掉漆。
除了金絲框、膠框以外,還有就是各種複合材質的鏡框,有些式金絲配板材、有些是不銹鋼配膠圈等等,其實只要把握上述原則,不要買到雷的原料,就已經選對了 40% 的鏡框了。
那麼剩下的 50% 呢?撇除掉做工、最重要的就是重量與配重。整副鏡框的重量盡量不要超過 20g,否則加上鏡片,很有可能太重。另外一點,就是配重,因為戴眼鏡需要配度數,因此品質不好的眼鏡常常出現鏡框前面過重,鏡腳太輕的狀況。檢驗方式很簡單,只要照著下面的圖片用雙手秤一下,就可以知道鏡架的配重表現。
整體來說,我會建議總重量固定的前提下,鏡腳端偏重較好,因為配度數眼鏡時,鏡框前面的重量還會再增加。確認配重無誤,你就又對了20%了,不管怎麼樣,你的鏡框至少都不會是根本戴不住的 垃圾。
那麼剩下的 40% 要怎麼選擇呢?我們之前有在 這篇文章分享過了,這邊也再簡述一次,挑選鏡框主要分三個層面,尺寸、形狀、顏色。
尺寸盡量選在你的頭寬範圍正負 10% 內,太小的鏡框戴久了,就算鏡框部變形,你的頭也會痛。太大的框則是很容易滑落。怎麼量鏡框寬呢?簡單地說,就是從鏡框兩邊接鏡腳的中心點量測。這個中心點通常是螺絲、或是絞鍊內側。可以先量自己現在的鏡框,去抓新的鏡框是否適合自己的頭的寬度。
寬度選好以後,再來就是鏡框形狀的挑選,就是把握互補原則,越圓的臉適合越方的框,越方的臉適合越圓的框,看不出來自己是圓臉還是方臉,就放膽隨便挑,反正沒有百分之百的方臉,也沒有百分之百的圓框,原則只是個方向。
顏色方面的選擇,我會建議以搭配或是完全相反的原則去挑選,如果你頭髮、瞳孔、或是身上常有黑色,那就挑黑色鏡框不會錯,如果你的髮色或膚色偏紅,我就會推薦玳帽色、金色等顏色。如果你膚色很深,那除了黑色外,也可以考慮超淺的顏色,例如透明色、亮色等等。
坦白說,一般消費者真的很難挑選到對的鏡框,如同我上面說的,相同的形狀,不銹鋼材質的鏡框可以銅合金鏡框的 1.5~2 倍之多,而製程好一點的不銹鋼鏡框可以跟 beta 鈦鏡框有相同的價格,重量也差不多(因為體積小,材質比重就影響不大)。因此,我們特地開了 Geek White 系列,供應各式標準值以上(很多)的鏡框給大家做選擇,方便大家用1000元起的價格,選到合適鏡框和鏡片。
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