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現在市面上的鏡框款式、品牌那麼多,價格從100塊到20,000塊都有,它們的品質真的有差那麼多嗎?

廢話不多說,我的答案是,5,000塊以下的鏡框,價格很容易和品質成正比。主要差別在鏡框材質、做工等和配戴性有絕對正相關的品質。而5,000塊以上的鏡框,價格和品質已經不成線性比例了。主要的差別比較會在於產地、訴求、設計不同等和風格、生活、甚至是行銷方式有關的選擇。所以有時候會發現,買了萬把塊的眼鏡,反而不如一千塊的眼鏡耐用。這邊不是說貴的鏡框騙錢,而是貴的鏡框背後常常有不同邏輯的著眼點。如果你真心喜歡,我是覺得買昂貴鏡框這件事情仍然極大的投資報酬率。想想,每天帶著真心喜歡的眼鏡出門,其實開心程度是很無價的。就像我前幾天看完蜘蛛人新宇宙以後就買了雙 Jordan 1 代的鞋是一樣的道理。

不過因為每個人開心的原因都不一樣,很難有採購指南,所以本篇文章,我們先只針對 5,000 塊以下的鏡框做討論,直接舉個例子,平平都是金絲眼鏡,我接觸過的出廠成本可以差到 50 倍之多。

金絲眼鏡,老花眼鏡

50 倍的價差差在哪呢?主要在於材質、表面處理。其中最主要的差別就是材質,光光一個金絲眼鏡,材質就分銅合金系列、錳鎳合金、不銹鋼、B 鈦、鈦,而銅合金中就又分了白銅、黃銅、青銅等等,每種不同的材質可能就會有 20% 甚至是一倍以上的價差,例如不銹鋼的鏡框成本通常會是一般合金框的 1.5~2 倍。而好一點的製程,可能又差了 20~50% 的價差,所謂製程好一點,是指例如絞鍊焊接的穩定度,或是表面處理色澤的牢固度。好一點的不銹鋼眼鏡,可能售價和製程沒那麼講究的 B 鈦眼鏡是一樣的。

焊接的不好,可能連接處的痕跡很明顯,或是強度不夠,表面處理,噴漆差的可能兩個月掉漆、電鍍半年、真空離子電鍍中等的可以撐一年,最高級的可能可以撐到兩年以上。

這就是 50 倍的價差由來,一副眼鏡末端要賣 100 元其實不是難事,我接觸過一副金絲眼鏡可以讓我進價在 20 元台幣以下的廠商。但交易對象連材料的銅是用甚麼銅都不清楚,搞不清楚黃銅和洋白或是 Monel 等不同合金的差異。這種眼鏡雖然可以賣得很便宜,但使用者戴回去可能一個禮拜有過敏反應,導致連鏡片的錢一起倒賠也是件很正常的事。

我認為,選甚麼眼鏡都好,基本至少要能長時間配戴一年,材質也很難過敏才叫及格。

接下來,就讓我直接用常見的眼鏡款式,按材料劃分等級,分成可用與不可用的材料,還有各個材料的優缺點。

  不推薦 推薦
金屬 各種銅、合金、鋁 不銹鋼、鈦合金系列
膠框 PC、壓克力 板材、次世代膠材(TR、Ultem、Epoxy等)

 

推薦材質的優缺點比較

 優點 缺點
不銹鋼 強度夠、不易過敏、容易調整 稍重、只能用在金絲或薄鋼結構的眼鏡。
鈦(B鈦、鈦) 輕、強度夠、不易過敏 加工門檻較高,目前無絕對標準,容易買到易斷、混到其他料的鈦框,相對很難調整形狀符合自己的臉。
板材 顏色豐富、自然、可拋光 稍重、無彈性、不夠強韌。
次世代膠材 輕、比板材強韌 通常為上漆處理,無法拋光,不同產地常用不同的原料。

其他關於K金、牛角等特殊材質做成的眼鏡因為較為特殊,不在本篇討論之內。

不推薦材質

  優點 缺點
各種銅、鎳、錳合金、鋁 便宜 副熱帶氣候特別容易容易生鏽、或引起過敏。
PC、壓克力 便宜 材質脆、容易斷

 

金絲眼鏡:常見的材質為銅、合金、不銹鋼、鈦,其中只要有銅、或是合金這三個字出現,都不推薦購買,即使是國外製造或進口的也不推薦。為什麼呢?因為台灣地處副熱帶氣候,氣溫較高、濕氣較重,人也比較容易流汗,很多眼鏡在歐美這種高緯度的地方戴起來很正常,但在台灣戴很容易半年掉漆,其實掉漆事小,只要表面色澤是後加工的,掉色只是遲早的事。最嚴重的就是掉漆後,人開始出現了過敏的狀況,通常這時候,眼鏡就不能戴了。而綜觀所有的材質,就只有不銹鋼與各式鈦合金相對來說,即使掉漆了,材質本體和肌膚的接觸,也是最不容易產生過敏反應的材質。

金絲眼鏡, 不銹鋼, 金, 眼鏡
台灣建議能戴的眼鏡材質只有鈦系列或不銹鋼。

膠框眼鏡:常見材質為 PC、PMMA、醋酸纖維(板材)、次世代膠材包含TR、ultem、epoxy...等等。膠框眼鏡的 PC 與 PMMA 建議直接跳過,這類的眼鏡材質通常只會出現在低單價如 zara、路邊攤等地方,因為材質偏硬偏脆,戴起來沒那麼舒適以外,很容易斷。而醋酸纖維(俗稱板材)還有各種次世代材質我就非常推薦,兩者的主要差異在於板材較重,強度也不夠,尺寸不對的話,戴久容易變形。品質好壞也差很多,有些醋酸纖維是用射出的,或是板材品質較差,含水量較高,相對來說,框體較重。但板材有個好處,就是它的色澤是本體的色澤,也就是說用久了,只要方法用得對,是可以針對表面的磨損進行再拋光的。

板材鏡框, 醋酸纖維眼鏡, 板材眼鏡, 膠框眼鏡, 黑框眼鏡
很多人不知道,板材框是可以重新拋光表面光澤的。

而各種次世代膠材眼鏡也是我非常推薦的,這種鏡框更輕、更強韌不變形,效果十分出眾。唯一的缺點就是表面的色澤通常需要靠噴漆加工,這種加工導致這種眼鏡最多戴一兩年後就會開始掉漆。

  次世代的膠框眼鏡, TR框

除了金絲框、膠框以外,還有就是各種複合材質的鏡框,有些式金絲配板材、有些是不銹鋼配膠圈等等,其實只要把握上述原則,不要買到雷的原料,就已經選對了 40% 的鏡框了。

那麼剩下的 50% 呢?撇除掉做工、最重要的就是重量與配重。整副鏡框的重量盡量不要超過 20g,否則加上鏡片,很有可能太重。另外一點,就是配重,因為戴眼鏡需要配度數,因此品質不好的眼鏡常常出現鏡框前面過重,鏡腳太輕的狀況。檢驗方式很簡單,只要照著下面的圖片用雙手秤一下,就可以知道鏡架的配重表現。

 

整體來說,我會建議總重量固定的前提下,鏡腳端偏重較好,因為配度數眼鏡時,鏡框前面的重量還會再增加。確認配重無誤,你就又對了20%了,不管怎麼樣,你的鏡框至少都不會是根本戴不住的 垃圾

那麼剩下的 40% 要怎麼選擇呢?我們之前有在 這篇文章分享過了,這邊也再簡述一次,挑選鏡框主要分三個層面,尺寸、形狀、顏色。

尺寸盡量選在你的頭寬範圍正負 10% 內,太小的鏡框戴久了,就算鏡框部變形,你的頭也會痛。太大的框則是很容易滑落。怎麼量鏡框寬呢?簡單地說,就是從鏡框兩邊接鏡腳的中心點量測。這個中心點通常是螺絲、或是絞鍊內側。可以先量自己現在的鏡框,去抓新的鏡框是否適合自己的頭的寬度。

寬度選好以後,再來就是鏡框形狀的挑選,就是把握互補原則,越圓的臉適合越方的框,越方的臉適合越圓的框,看不出來自己是圓臉還是方臉,就放膽隨便挑,反正沒有百分之百的方臉,也沒有百分之百的圓框,原則只是個方向。

顏色方面的選擇,我會建議以搭配或是完全相反的原則去挑選,如果你頭髮、瞳孔、或是身上常有黑色,那就挑黑色鏡框不會錯,如果你的髮色或膚色偏紅,我就會推薦玳帽色、金色等顏色。如果你膚色很深,那除了黑色外,也可以考慮超淺的顏色,例如透明色、亮色等等。

坦白說,一般消費者真的很難挑選到對的鏡框,如同我上面說的,相同的形狀,不銹鋼材質的鏡框可以銅合金鏡框的 1.5~2 倍之多,而製程好一點的不銹鋼鏡框可以跟 beta 鈦鏡框有相同的價格,重量也差不多(因為體積小,材質比重就影響不大)。因此,我們特地開了 Geek White 系列,供應各式標準值以上(很多)的鏡框給大家做選擇,方便大家用1000元起的價格,選到合適鏡框和鏡片。

點我去看各式鏡框

金絲鏡框

板材鏡框

次世代膠框

 

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Bobbyshimb
Bobbyshimb

9月 19, 2020

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